Need advice/help building a computer

[cleverpun]

Assuming you won't be adding more RAM later, which you most likely will have no need to, the general consensus is 2x4gb is better.

why?

[Euphoria]

My PC cost around 1,200 but I also splurged on extras ($200 case and such).  Ill see if I can find my specs and put them here.  It runs all the high end games pretty easily (Dark Souls 2, Assassins Creed BF, Skyrim etc..).

 

CPU- i5 4670k

Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper212 EVO CPU

Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3

GPU: Gtx 770

Power Supply: 800 Watt Corsair (Don't remember exact model)

Case: Corsair Carbide Air

 

I recommend a Regular hard drive unless you want to spend money on a SSD to turn your computer on faster.  DEDICATED WAM is also up to you.  8gb will work with games now but if you have some extra money upgrading to 16gb should be a first.  I recommend any Corsair Case due to the fact that they are easy to take apart and clean.

[AwesomeMcCoolName]

why?

because ram is designed so it can run in channels.

So dual channel is faster than single channel. It's similar to raid 0 although not nearly as much of a difference. In raid 0, information is divided and written to both drives at the same time. So if you had to copy a file to a raid 0 array consisting of 2 drives, the first half the file would be written to one drive while the second half the file is written to the second drive at the same time.

So when possible you want your ram to be in dual channel, or quad channel if you have an x79 motherboard.

 

 

My PC cost around 1,200 but I also splurged on extras ($200 case and such). Ill see if I can find my specs and put them here. It runs all the high end games pretty easily (Dark Souls 2, Assassins Creed BF, Skyrim etc..).

 

CPU- i5 4670k

Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper212 EVO CPU

Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3

GPU: Gtx 770

Power Supply: 800 Watt Corsair (Don't remember exact model)

Case: Corsair Carbide Air

 

I recommend a Regular hard drive unless you want to spend money on a SSD to turn your computer on faster. DEDICATED WAM is also up to you. 8gb will work with games now but if you have some extra money upgrading to 16gb should be a first. I recommend any Corsair Case due to the fact that they are easy to take apart and clean.

 

No.....there's literally ok reason to get 16gb of ram unless you're editing.

@baloo, I'm on a phone...deal with it.

[Shawnee]

because ram is designed so it can run in channels.

So dual channel is faster than single channel.

 

No.....there's literally ok reason to get 16gb of ram unless you're editing.

He means no reason, and his explanation of dual channel is correct.

[Zcrab]

I'll be honest and say I didn't read all the other posts on this topic, so if I say something others have said already, sorry.

 

I won't say the exactly what you should get, since there is too many possibilities and too many people that will argue about it being bad.

 

As for CPU goes then I've seen some people say that you should get a "k" CPU, this does not make any sense, "k" processors are ment for overclocking and thats pretty much the only thing you pay for, you get a slightly better performance, but it's nothing you should about since it's such a little diffrence.

 

I wouldn't buy an AMD CPU, since thoose generrally create more heat, meaning you should invest in better cooling for it not to overheat (especially in the summer).

 

As for ram, then just go with 8GB, 4GB can be used, but it wouldn't be as smooth as 8. Don't get any more than 8, since that really only matters if you are going to do more avanced video editing, photo editing etc. it doesn't matter for games.

 

I see alot of people now a days saying that SSD's are just for faster boot up time. This is not true at all! If your OS is saved on an SSD then it will run faster and smoother, and your PC will boot up faster, this also goes for other software. I'd invest in a 120GB SSD just for your OS and your writing software etc. and then get a 500GB regular harddrive (maybe more if you see yourself using that much space) and then save everything else on that, games, movies etc.

 

Graphic card is obviously the most important thing for your PC, im not totally updated on theese, but if I am right a Nvidia GeForce GTX 770 should do for most games now a days, or a AMD Radeon HD card around same price. Though asking for what graphics card you need is always risky since there are a ton of Nvidia and AMD fanboys.

 

Whatever you choose for graphics card, don't take anything above the price of a GTX 770, thoose sure run games good, but they won't be able to run all new games at ultra for very long.

 

Make sure to get a PSU that can give enough power for everything, don't be stingy here, but don't go crazy with it either.

 

Alot of people think they can spare some money by taking a cheaper mobo since they don't realise how important it is. All of the data the other components have needs to go through the mobo, so if your mobo is slow, your other components may not be doing what they are fully capable of. Get a descent mobo.

 

Last is your case, not much to say here, but get a case with plenty of build in fans so you don't have to buy more thoose.

 

Excuse me if some sentences does not make sense, I wrote all of this on an Ipad.

[AwesomeMcCoolName]

Graphic card is obviously the most important thing for your PC, im not totally updated on theese, but if I am right a Nvidia GeForce GTX 770 should do for most games now a days, or a AMD Radeon HD card around same price. Though asking for what graphics card you need is always risky since there are a ton of Nvidia and AMD fanboys.

 

Whatever you choose for graphics card, don't take anything above the price of a GTX 770, thoose sure run games good, but they won't be able to run all new games at ultra for very long.

 

Make sure to get a PSU that can give enough power for everything, don't be stingy here, but don't go crazy with it either.

 

Alot of people think they can spare some money by taking a cheaper mobo since they don't realise how important it is. All of the data the other components have needs to go through the mobo, so if your mobo is slow, your other components may not be doing what they are fully capable of. Get a descent mobo.

The GTX780 is quite a bit better than the 770--about 25% better. Anyway.... I'd go with the 280x over the 770, or ideally a 290.

 

A 500w psu is more than enough for a single gpu.

 

Theres virtually no performance difference between the highest end and lowest end motherboards--assuming they're both from reputable companies (Asus, AsRock, Gigabyte, MSI), and both have the same chipsets/ports. 

[Zcrab]

The GTX780 is quite a bit better than the 770--about 25% better. Anyway.... I'd go with the 280x over the 770, or ideally a 290.

 

A 500w psu is more than enough for a single gpu.

 

Theres virtually no performance difference between the highest end and lowest end motherboards--assuming they're both from reputable companies (Asus, AsRock, Gigabyte, MSI), and both have the same chipsets/ports.

 

GTX 780 is also quite a bit more expensive than GTX 770 too.

 

Indeed.

 

It can still slow down the components.

[AwesomeMcCoolName]

It can still slow down the components.

Not really. 

[Zcrab]

Not really.

 

Well...

 

Slow SATA Connection can result in slow World/map loading, longer wait to move files.

 

A Slow FSB Speed means generally slower performance because it will take longer to get information from the HDD-RAM-CPU-GPU And out to your display.

 

It does not need to be the best, but get a descent one, it'll be worth it.

[AwesomeMcCoolName]

Well...

 

Slow SATA Connection can result in slow World/map loading, longer wait to move files.

 

A Slow FSB Speed means generally slower performance because it will take longer to get information from the HDD-RAM-CPU-GPU And out to your display.

 

It does not need to be the best, but get a descent one, it'll be worth it.

All of which are non-issues assuming you buy from a reputable brand--Asus, AsRock, MSI, or Gigabyte.

[Zcrab]

All of which are non-issues assuming you buy from a reputable brand--Asus, AsRock, MSI, or Gigabyte.

I don't want to start a flame war here, we could keep going like this.

 

This is what always happens when someone asks for what hardware to get....

 

Anyways, just pick either McCoolName's advice or mine about this and don't say wich of them you choose.

[cleverpun]

I don't want to start a flame war here, we could keep going like this.

This thread actually still hasn't hit the standard argument quota yet

[AwesomeMcCoolName]

I don't want to start a flame war here, we could keep going like this.

 

This is what always happens when someone asks for what hardware to get....

 

Anyways, just pick either McCoolName's advice or mine about this and don't say wich of them you choose.

Well, like I said in my suggestion post, theres no real reason not to go with an overcloackable processor/board as its only marginally more expensive, but can give you an extra couple years of performance. 

 

 

 

 

 

I5 4670/4690 (220)

Msi h97 guard pro (100)

R9 280x (300)

Nzxt spurce 210 (40) / corsair carbide 300r (60)

8gb corsair vengeance (75)

Samsung 840 evo 128gb (85)/ adata premier sp600 (65)

Wd blue 1tb (60)

Corsair cx500 (30)

 

Total: 900 leaving plenty for a monitor keyboard and mouse.

 

If you want to have the option of getting a second gpu then you will want a z87/97 board. I would personally spend the extra $10 and get a 4690k and another $10 to $20 and get a z97 board that way you can oc and have multiple gpus in the future if you want.

 

I'm on my phone right now, so no links and long winded rationales....but I'll be home later tonight

 

EDIT:

Actual spec'd out build, a bit over budget, but easily knocked down by:

• getting a cheaper mouse/keyboard (keyboard may be good or bad, honestly don't know--just picked a relatively cheap one from logitech)
• not getting an overclockable cpu--although I think you should get one since you can gain a nice performance boost (and longevity) in the future should you oc. But if you really have absolutely no intention of overclocking, then I'd go with either an i5-4570 and a z87/h87 board.
• z97 motherboard since it gives you the option to oc and SLI/XFIRE--again allowing you to gain a nice performance boost in the future. 
• not getting a Corsair modular psu. A cheaper psu can be had for like $30. 

 

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

 

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($238.99 @ Amazon) 

Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($99.99 @ Newegg) 

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory  ($76.50 @ Newegg) 

Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($84.98 @ OutletPC) 

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($54.98 @ OutletPC) 

Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Tri-X Video Card  ($389.00 @ Newegg) 

Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case  ($39.98 @ OutletPC) 

Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($54.99 @ Micro Center) 

Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit)  ($21.00) 

Monitor: Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor  ($149.99 @ Newegg) 

Keyboard: Logitech MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse  ($14.98 @ OutletPC) 

Mouse: Corsair Raptor M45 Wired Optical Mouse  ($49.99 @ Newegg) 

Total: $1275.37

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

 

 

 

[{SH}Kirito]

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3PCpmG

assuming-

1. you reuse your hard drives (dont see why you wouldnt unless you use a laptop, but 1 tb's arent very expensive, around 50 bucks)

2. you dont need a different from the stock cpu cooler

to be noted-

that monitor can be swapped out but it is pretty good. I own it and there's nothing wrong with it.

OS of your choice is what it says, your choice of os. you can get 64 bit windows 8.1/7 for around 90 bucks which i put as the price.

[AwesomeMcCoolName]

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3PCpmG

assuming-

1. you reuse your hard drives (dont see why you wouldnt unless you use a laptop, but 1 tb's arent very expensive, around 50 bucks)

2. you dont need a different from the stock cpu cooler

to be noted-

that monitor can be swapped out but it is pretty good. I own it and there's nothing wrong with it.

OS of your choice is what it says, your choice of os. you can get 64 bit windows 8.1/7 for around 90 bucks which i put as the price.

Don't get an i3 :/ especially with a 97 board--sata express and m.2 aren't that important. 

Also, dual channel ram > single channel. 

 

/Its not worth the $20 discount to get the i3+8gb stick. 

 

Side note: A better combo deal with a 4690k and z97 board: 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1730245

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1730247

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1730241

[{SH}Kirito]

Don't get an i3 :/ especially with a 97 board--sata express and m.2 aren't that important. 

Also, dual channel ram > single channel. 

 

/Its not worth the $20 discount to get the i3+8gb stick. 

 

Side note: A better combo deal with a 4690k and z97 board: 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1730245

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1730247

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1730241

i just threw it together, but if someone actually is going to take my advice and go like 100% into it then ill actually do loads of research and crap to go with it, i was just giving a suggestion/ideas for you guys to base off of

[Liddojunior]

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

 

This is my recommendation and is over budget but includes all the peripherals. 

It is similar to awesome's recommendation, but I think this is a bit more future proof in case you want to add more in the future. (I would go with a full ATX board over a micro/mini ATX )

 

The reason I selected the 750 W power supply is because most video cards such as the 780 min recommend wattage is 600 watts. 

And leaves room for additional attachments and prefer having the power supply not running at maximum

 

The cheap logitech keyboard/mouse is only something for now till you have more money to spend on a mechanical keyboard and a great mouse. When that time comes my recommendations go to the corsair k90/m65 but there are more options and threads about them. 

 

The 2 speaker set up is also just for now its cheap, unless you don't mind just those 2 speakers in the future. I personally have just a 2 speaker set-up and for gaming thats all you really need. 

 

The motherboard I recommended is full ATX and offers support for SLI & Crossfire for further future proofing. It has onboard USB 3.0 and is easily overclockable, in the event you would want to. 

 

 

Where money can be saved, by changing this recommendation. 

 

Instead of the GTX 780 you can go with the GTX 660 which will save you ~$250+, the 660 will give you great performance in games. Perfect for the next 2 years which by then you will be able to upgrade to a much better card that is available at the time. 

 

You can save around 20$ if you go with a cheaper motherboard. Making sure it has a LGA1150 socket. 

Such as this one http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-motherboard-z97pcmate It won't have sli support but it is perfectly fine. 

 

I would go with an IPS 60 hz monitor and went with a large size since I do not know your preference. You can select a cheaper monitor, but I do recommend an IPS monitor. If you want a 23' monitor go with the one awesome recommended. 

 

You can opt out of the optical drive or choose a blu-ray drive. I'm sure you will need one so I selected a good cheap dvd-rw drive. 

 

You can go for a cheaper or smaller case. I recommended the nzxt phantom because that is the case I have. It has tons of room (you can add plenty of drives in the future) , easy to work with, and has great ventilation. If you go with a smaller case make sure to get a motherboard that fits the case. 

 

 

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($238.99 @ Amazon) 

Motherboard: MSI Z97-G55 SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($118.98 @ Newegg) 

Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory  ($89.99 @ Amazon) 

Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($52.91 @ OutletPC) 

Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked ACX Video Card  ($489.99 @ NCIX US) 

Case: NZXT Phantom (White) ATX Full Tower Case  ($79.99 @ Newegg) 

Power Supply: Thermaltake 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($74.99 @ Newegg) 

Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer  ($14.99 @ Newegg) 

Monitor: LG 27MP35HQ 60Hz 27.0" Monitor  ($209.99 @ Newegg) 

Keyboard: Logitech MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse  ($14.98 @ OutletPC) 

Speakers: Logitech LS11 3W 2ch Speakers  ($14.99 @ Amazon) 

Total: $1400.79

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

 

[AwesomeMcCoolName]

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

 

This is my recommendation and is over budget but includes all the peripherals. 

It is similar to awesome's recommendation, but I think this is a bit more future proof in case you want to add more in the future. (I would go with a full ATX board over a micro/mini ATX )

 

The reason I selected the 750 W power supply is because most video cards such as the 780 min recommend wattage is 600 watts. 

And leaves room for additional attachments and prefer having the power supply not running at maximum

 

The cheap logitech keyboard/mouse is only something for now till you have more money to spend on a mechanical keyboard and a great mouse. When that time comes my recommendations go to the corsair k90/m65 but there are more options and threads about them. 

 

.......

 

Where money can be saved, by changing this recommendation. 

 

Instead of the GTX 780 you can go with the GTX 660 which will save you ~$250+, the 660 will give you great performance in games. Perfect for the next 2 years which by then you will be able to upgrade to a much better card that is available at the time. 

 

 

 

I would go with an IPS 60 hz monitor and went with a large size since I do not know your preference. You can select a cheaper monitor, but I do recommend an IPS monitor. If you want a 23' monitor go with the one awesome recommended. 

 

You can opt out of the optical drive or choose a blu-ray drive. I'm sure you will need one so I selected a good cheap dvd-rw drive. 

 

You can go for a cheaper or smaller case. I recommended the nzxt phantom because that is the case I have. It has tons of room (you can add plenty of drives in the future) , easy to work with, and has great ventilation. If you go with a smaller case make sure to get a motherboard that fits the case. 

 

 

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($238.99 @ Amazon) 

Motherboard: MSI Z97-G55 SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($118.98 @ Newegg) 

Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory  ($89.99 @ Amazon) 

Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($52.91 @ OutletPC) 

Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked ACX Video Card  ($489.99 @ NCIX US) 

Case: NZXT Phantom (White) ATX Full Tower Case  ($79.99 @ Newegg) 

Power Supply: Thermaltake 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($74.99 @ Newegg) 

Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer  ($14.99 @ Newegg) 

Monitor: LG 27MP35HQ 60Hz 27.0" Monitor  ($209.99 @ Newegg) 

Keyboard: Logitech MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse  ($14.98 @ OutletPC) 

Speakers: Logitech LS11 3W 2ch Speakers  ($14.99 @ Amazon) 

Total: $1400.79

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

 

 

Theres no real advantage to ATX over mATX. A matx board can do anything ATX can with one exception. ATX can handle 2+ gpus and something else or handle multiple gpus spaced apart vs. matx, which can handle 2 gpus but right against eachother--which in all honesty is perfectly fine if the case as good airflow. So, unless you intend to do 3+ gpus and/or adding a sound/network card, then theres no reason to go ATX. 

 

As for the psu, A 550w psu is more than enough, although I would personally get a 750w if there was any intention to SLI/XFIRE. 

 

Unless he needs macro keys, then a k70 is just as good as a k95 if not better since its not as bulky. Although, I wouldn't get either as I really like the ten keyless form factor. 

 

I wouldn't even consider getting a 660... If anything I'd do something like this: gtx780 > r9 290> r9 280x>r9 280>gtx770>r9 270/x>gtx760.

 

I seriously doubt he'd ever need an optical drive. Windows can easily be installed from a flash drive, and drivers should never be installed from a disc. 

[Liddojunior]

Theres no real advantage to ATX over mATX. A matx board can do anything ATX can with one exception. ATX can handle 2+ gpus and something else or handle multiple gpus spaced apart vs. matx, which can handle 2 gpus but right against eachother--which in all honesty is perfectly fine if the case as good airflow. So, unless you intend to do 3+ gpus and/or adding a sound/network card, then theres no reason to go ATX. 

 

As for the psu, A 550w psu is more than enough, although I would personally get a 750w if there was any intention to SLI/XFIRE. 

 

Unless he needs macro keys, then a k70 is just as good as a k95 if not better since its not as bulky. Although, I wouldn't get either as I really like the ten keyless form factor. 

 

I wouldn't even consider getting a 660... If anything I'd do something like this: gtx780 > r9 290> r9 280x>r9 280>gtx770>r9 270/x>gtx760.

 

I seriously doubt he'd ever need an optical drive. Windows can easily be installed from a flash drive, and drivers should never be installed from a disc. 

 

The thing is he might want to go wireless some day. That would need a PCI slot. He might want to add some ports that would need a PCI slot. He might want to SLI in the future. It leaves room for upgrades. When the cost difference can be meager or no difference. So, I recommend a full size ATX board when it might not cost him more, if he gets a mid-full size tower. It'll look funny in the mid-tower size case if he gets a micro. 

 

Yea I meant to say k75 

I dont use these micro keys and I would rather have the k75 over the k90/5

 

Well I personally like to stick with recommend factory specs and the 700 series recommend atleast a 600 psu and the difference for 750w over a 550w is small, best way to ensure he wont need to buy a new psu in the event he wants to upgrade. 

 

I would rather say get a top line gpu right now if he can. But offered the option to get a gtx 660 for 180-220$ right now which will run everything on high/max settings 1080p 60fps (I have a gtx 560ti still and run everything at high/max 60 fps still)

And that will save him a good amount of money right now, and its perfect for waiting till the next line of cards, especially for a maxwell gpu since they are nearing release. 

 

 

Thats why I said it is optional. And i use my drive often so I believe Im not the only one. 

I have dvds & cds

I burn cds, I have to burn projects on cds/dvds for school to turn in. So think he might need one, so I included it. 

[AwesomeMcCoolName]

The thing is he might want to go wireless some day. That would need a PCI slot. He might want to add some ports that would need a PCI slot. He might want to SLI in the future. It leaves room for upgrades. When the cost difference can be meager or no difference. So, I recommend a full size ATX board when it might not cost him more, if he gets a mid-full size tower. It'll look funny in the mid-tower size case if he gets a micro. 

 

Well I personally like to stick with recommend factory specs and the 700 series recommend atleast a 600 psu 

 

I would rather say get a top line gpu right now if he can. But offered the option to get a gtx 660 for 180-220$ right now which will run everything on high/max settings 1080p 60fps (I have a gtx 560ti still and run everything at high/max 60 fps still)

And that will save him a good amount of money right now, and its perfect for waiting till the next line of cards, especially for a maxwell gpu since they are nearing release. 

you can SLI/XFIRE on matx. I have every intention of getting a second 780 in a couple years for my matx build. matx builds are just more compact, and the likelihood of needing a pci slot for ports is virtually nonexistent, and usb-wireless adapters are getting to be quite good--especially since most people aren't paying for gigabit ethernet. 

 

An r9 270x can be had for the same price as a 660, except the 270/x is better. 

[Liddojunior]

you can SLI/XFIRE on matx. I have every intention of getting a second 780 in a couple years for my matx build. matx builds are just more compact, and the likelihood of needing a pci slot for ports is virtually nonexistent, and usb-wireless adapters are getting to be quite good--especially since most people aren't paying for gigabit ethernet. 

 

An r9 270x can be had for the same price as a 660, except the 270/x is better. 

 

Well when the cost is meager, and he has the case. Its always better to get the full size ATX in my opinion. Future proof. 

I use a wireless network adapter on one of my PCI slots and prefer that over using a usb port. Keeps it in the case and is more stable. 

 

And most mATX are not well suited for sli 

Most gpus can take up plenty of space because of the coolers on them. So, if space is not an issue ATX > mATX 

 

Thats also a good possibility. 

I have brand preference and would always go nvidia over amd. 

[cleverpun]

Alright, after going over all the advice from here, Reddit, and the various articles I read, here is the list I've come up with;

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($238.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($135.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Blu Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($71.88 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($52.91 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card  ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case  ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer  ($14.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)  ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1119.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

 

I don't plan to overclock, but I still chose some OC-capable parts since I need this computer to last as long as possible and they were not that much more expensive. Still undecided on monitor/other peripherals. Looks like I'm going to go over budget after accessories/chair/etc. but I'm not too worried about it since my backpack is paying for everything anyway :3

 

Any further thoughts/advice before I start shopping are welcome, natch

[AwesomeMcCoolName]

Either get a z87 board and keep the 4670k or get a 4690k and a z97 board. 4690k tends to oc more consistently and runs a hot cooler. Z97 supports m.2 and Sata express.

 

You can also by a windows key from g2a.com I personally have never bought anything there but plenty of people have and never had an issue (it's like $21 rather than $100).

 

It's also worthwhile upgrading to an r9 290 if you're willing to spend a bit more.

 

I'd also get a crucial mx100 rather than Sandisk, but that's just me....I personally would never got an ssd from anyone other than Samsung or crucial as they both have amazing support, reliability, and don't dick around with consumers (*looking at you PNY and Kingston*).

[Shawnee]

Speaking of the R9 290, it's $120 off at TigerDirect.com for today only.

[cleverpun]

Either get a z87 board and keep the 4670k or get a 4690k and a z97 board. 4690k tends to oc more consistently and runs a hot cooler. Z97 supports m.2 and Sata express.

 

You can also by a windows key from g2a.com I personally have never bought anything there but plenty of people have and never had an issue (it's like $21 rather than $100).

 

It's also worthwhile upgrading to an r9 290 if you're willing to spend a bit more.

 

I'd also get a crucial mx100 rather than Sandisk, but that's just me....I personally would never got an ssd from anyone other than Samsung or crucial as they both have amazing support, reliability, and don't dick around with consumers (*looking at you PNY and Kingston*).

Double the price doesn't really fit my definition of "a bit more" P:

 

Well, those SSDs are the same cost, so if Crucial has better support then I don't mind switching the SSD