After installing new RAM: Chrome runs hell slow, Discord runs hell slow, Wildlands has audio glitches

[JayTuut]

Troubleshooting Help:

What is your parts list? 

https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/g7bmZR

 

Describe your problem. List any error messages and symptoms. Be descriptive.

Chrome tabs freeze when changing tabs, and when loading new pages, otherwise works fine. (So if i click on another tab it'll just freeze chrome for like 5-7 seconds then go onto the page, really annoying) Also downloading stuff in chrome is 0.1mb/s (compared to 1.1mb/s)

 

Discord is running really fucking slow, really laggy, kinda same as chrome where a new server/chat/channel lags heaps. Though it has happened before and i had to reinstall it so idk

 

As for Ghost recon wildlands, I noticed launching it to test the RAM that the audio cuts out every 3 seconds for like a second then comes back in. Really odd

Edit: Not just wildlands, any game, just checked.

 

Could these be related to the RAM? I ran a benchmark and the RAM is working fine, its been OC'ed to the DDR4-3000 (it is a ddr4-3000 ram stick but it is by default on my motherboard 2400 but yeah overclocked to 3000)

 

List anything you've done in attempt to diagnose or fix the problem.

Windows updates, restarts, yeah.

 

Provide any additional details you wish below.

I don't know if it is the RAM problem, all I know it happened after I put the ram in

[DanielDee]

When you installed the ram did you update your windows performance index in control panel? Also if you have no cooling system for the ram yet have it overclocked expect the lifespan and reliabillity of the ram to be greatly reduced. Its ok to overclock GPUs and CPUs because they have independent heat sinks and fans where as ram does not. Id recommend changing the clock back to standard on the ram and update your windows performance index. Usually if you have motherboard ram settings set to auto and it places the ram speed lower. This is usually for a reason..

[TF2Scourge]

did you make the very basic error of putting the sticks beside each other?

[JayTuut]

2 hours ago, TF2Scourge said:

did you make the very basic error of putting the sticks beside each other?

 

Nope they are in slot 2/4 as the manual/user guide for the motherboard says

[JayTuut]

3 hours ago, DanielDee said:

When you installed the ram did you update your windows performance index in control panel? Also if you have no cooling system for the ram yet have it overclocked expect the lifespan and reliabillity of the ram to be greatly reduced. Its ok to overclock GPUs and CPUs because they have independent heat sinks and fans where as ram does not. Id recommend changing the clock back to standard on the ram and update your windows performance index. Usually if you have motherboard ram settings set to auto and it places the ram speed lower. This is usually for a reason..

 

No? Could u expand on the first bit of it? How do you update the windows performance index?

Also the inside of my PC stays pretty cool so I don't think its that but you could be right.

[BlastFM]

Try using it without the overclock. If it helps, but you want to OC it - I suggest doing more research on the topic. Like, fully understanding memory timings and voltages and all that stuff. If it doesnt work at the frequency that it defaulted to - mess with it some more, if it doesnt help - it's probably broken. 

 

Also make sure your mobo actually supports your new ram

 

And mess with xfr profiles. Might help. Might need to not use it. Test stuff out

 

And, finally, don't expect too much from this place. We're a bunch of tf2 players, not everyone here is great with tech

 

 

 

And yeah, if it doesnt have a heat spreader, that might also be a problem

 

 

 

EDIT: I meant XMP ofc. I was half asleep when typing this lol

[_inu]

Revert your RAM to stock speeds, test it and if it work you may enable the XMP profile(if one exists, otherwise leave at stock).

 

Overclocking RAM brings no measurable performance increase and actually is a very high risk if you don't understand the parameters you need to work with. To curb a bit of false information though, RAM does not need dedicated cooling and it has a heatspreader. The grey "shield" around the DIMMs in your case is the heatsink. Liquid cooled RAM is a meme and getting RAM to overheat is actually somewhat difficult. As for RAM temps in general it is is a weird case: Some RAM loves running higher temp and will spit out errors at low temps actually, the exact opposite applies for other models.

 

The max safe voltage for DDR4 is 1.45V, some can handle 1.5V well too. Did you go above 1,5V?

 

 

Edit: By no measurable performance increase I was talking about OCs such as 2133Mhz to 2400Mhz. Larger OCs like 1333Mhz to 3000Mhz can net tons of performance gain.

[SoranoGuardias]

I would suggest you look up the same memory model as you have, but for that specific frequency, so you'll be looking for the Ballistic Sport RAM running at 2400. Take a note of that memory kit's latency timings.

Then, go into BIOS and reset your configuration settings and reboot. When you reboot come back into BIOS and run your board's BIOS-based optimization function and let it reboot again.

Now, go back into the BIOS another time and head to your memory timings. Set the configuration to manual 2400 and under CAS timings input the same configuration you noted as the model you looked up.

The thing about auto-configuration is it sets the memory speed to the best frequency supported by your board but it does not adjust the memory timings for the appropriate speed, most often because they are not listed in the SPD. Tightening your memory timings can improve your performance significantly.

I should also note that unless you are running extremely high system overclocks or are using RAM-intensive retrieval applications, having massively-high RAM speeds is pretty much a net-loss return unless you are willing to keep an eye on that at all times. Downclocking the RAM would also relieve any performance issues due to voltage instability as incorrect voltage can cause RAM to function improperly.

[JayTuut]

17 hours ago, BlastFM said:

And, finally, don't expect too much from this place. We're a bunch of tf2 players, not everyone here is great with tech

 

Very true. But I wasn't getting any answers from reddit/toms hardware so I decided to go here as a sort of last resort

 

17 hours ago, BlastFM said:

And mess with xfr profiles. Might help. Might need to not use it. Test stuff out

What are XFR profiles?? Unless u mean XMP in which I'm not sure if I should, it had a default one auto configured for the RAM so I'd assume thats right, I had to turn it on for the RAM to OC

 

17 hours ago, BlastFM said:

Also make sure your mobo actually supports your new ram

It does, I thought I stated that, maybe not.

 

13 hours ago, _inu said:

Revert your RAM to stock speeds, test it and if it work you may enable the XMP profile(if one exists, otherwise leave at stock).

 

Overclocking RAM brings no measurable performance increase and actually is a very high risk if you don't understand the parameters you need to work with. To curb a bit of false information though, RAM does not need dedicated cooling and it has a heatspreader. The grey "shield" around the DIMMs in your case is the heatsink. Liquid cooled RAM is a meme and getting RAM to overheat is actually somewhat difficult. As for RAM temps in general it is is a weird case: Some RAM loves running higher temp and will spit out errors at low temps actually, the exact opposite applies for other models.

 

The max safe voltage for DDR4 is 1.45V, some can handle 1.5V well too. Did you go above 1,5V?

 

1) thats how i oc'ed it, by enabling the XMP profile

2) It only runs at 2400 if not OC'ed, so its kinda a waste for a 3000mhz RAM is it not?

3) I know it doesn't need cooling lol you can't cool RAM apart from case fans I guess

 

4) No, it's only running at 1.35V

 

[JayTuut]

11 hours ago, SoranoGuardias said:

I would suggest you look up the same memory model as you have, but for that specific frequency, so you'll be looking for the Ballistic Sport RAM running at 2400. Take a note of that memory kit's latency timings.

Then, go into BIOS and reset your configuration settings and reboot. When you reboot come back into BIOS and run your board's BIOS-based optimization function and let it reboot again.

Now, go back into the BIOS another time and head to your memory timings. Set the configuration to manual 2400 and under CAS timings input the same configuration you noted as the model you looked up.

The thing about auto-configuration is it sets the memory speed to the best frequency supported by your board but it does not adjust the memory timings for the appropriate speed, most often because they are not listed in the SPD. Tightening your memory timings can improve your performance significantly.

I should also note that unless you are running extremely high system overclocks or are using RAM-intensive retrieval applications, having massively-high RAM speeds is pretty much a net-loss return unless you are willing to keep an eye on that at all times. Downclocking the RAM would also relieve any performance issues due to voltage instability as incorrect voltage can cause RAM to function improperly.

 

1) What? I'm so confused on your first sentence, you're saying to find the 2400 version of my 3000 mhz one? Why?

2) It looks like the RAM is set to the auto configed XMP profile (which is how i got it to OC anyway)

[JayTuut]

Also bit of an update:

1) For people who didn't check my parts list: THE RAM IS 3000MHZ, it was overclocked as by on default the board maxes out on 2400, but it supports OC to up to 3400mhz.

2) After 2 days since this happening, chrome seems to have fixed itself, discord is.... yeah... still fucked and as for games, wildlands in particular, it seems to be less common but still every 6 seconds or so the sound cuts out for like half a second.. really odd

[_inu]

As said. Try it without XMP and report back.

 

Alternatively you can just run memtest for a few hours and see if your RAM throws errors.

[SoranoGuardias]

If you don't understand how to do all of that, then I suggest you go online and buy ANOTHER 16GB kit at 2400MHz and then flip your current 3000MHz kit. You'll get roughly 75-90% of the value back.

[S T E W]

Try running the RAM in slots 1/3.  Never hurts

[JayTuut]

4 hours ago, S T E W said:

Try running the RAM in slots 1/3.  Never hurts

Thats going against the manual and I'm pretty sure I tried that and it didn't do anything

 

Ran a memtest86 and said RAM was fine, so I'm confused.

19 hours ago, _inu said:

As said. Try it without XMP and report back.

 

Alternatively you can just run memtest for a few hours and see if your RAM throws errors.

Lol just saw this quote so i'll edit it in, I did run a memtest86 for like 2 hours 50 mins and yeah no errors, 100% pass

 

7 hours ago, SoranoGuardias said:

If you don't understand how to do all of that, then I suggest you go online and buy ANOTHER 16GB kit at 2400MHz and then flip your current 3000MHz kit. You'll get roughly 75-90% of the value back.

 

No? Like how are you helping this thread? Lmao, why would I want to downgrade when my motherboard supports it. Thats not the issue.

[SoranoGuardias]

Your board may SUPPORT it, but that doesn't mean your board RUNS WELL with it. I have some experience in this department. If you aren't going to be a hardcore overclocker and get your elbows greasy digging around tweaking with memory timings, then you should be using RAM that operates at the DDR4 floor spec for your platform, which is 2400. Unless you are willing to tinker with your system and you just want it to WORK, then anything above base spec is going to be a pain in your butt.

[SoranoGuardias]

The Z270 platform supports the DDR4 specification of 2400 MHz (PC4-19200). To properly run a higher specification, you have to OVERCLOCK the memory controller. This is not a 100% automatic process. Voltages have to be increased, timings have to be changed, and this has to be tested constantly.

Why? BECAUSE THE MEMORY IS OUT OF SPEC.

The specifications for the Z270 platform operating with a 7th-generation Intel Core i7 CPU is DDR4 2133/2400 SUPPORTED. Your options are to adjust your memory speed and timings to the appropriate settings for 2400 operation, buy another kit set for 2400MHz and flip your old one, or dick around with your system and potentially blow it up. Your choice, bucko.

And heads up, the memory controller that would be potentially blown up is in the CPU. There's no fixing that.

[JayTuut]

26 minutes ago, SoranoGuardias said:

The Z270 platform supports the DDR4 specification of 2400 MHz (PC4-19200). To properly run a higher specification, you have to OVERCLOCK the memory controller. This is not a 100% automatic process. Voltages have to be increased, timings have to be changed, and this has to be tested constantly.

Why? BECAUSE THE MEMORY IS OUT OF SPEC.

The specifications for the Z270 platform operating with a 7th-generation Intel Core i7 CPU is DDR4 2133/2400 SUPPORTED. Your options are to adjust your memory speed and timings to the appropriate settings for 2400 operation, buy another kit set for 2400MHz and flip your old one, or dick around with your system and potentially blow it up. Your choice, bucko.

And heads up, the memory controller that would be potentially blown up is in the CPU. There's no fixing that.

 

There was a ready made XMP profile in bios to increase voltage and OC the memory, so I'm pretty sure its automatic.

 

And by the z270 profile: Supports: 3800(OC)/ 3600(OC)/ 3200(OC)/ 3000(OC)/ 2800(OC)/ 2600(OC)/ 2400/ 2133 MHz 

 

Also Idk why you're telling me to re-sell the memory when I can get my full money back from it... very odd.

 

"Dick around with your system and potentially blow it up" Lol what.

 

So what you're saying is manufactorers say they support a memory mhz but yet you're saying "oh no u cant do that" whats the point in listing they support it? How would it even blow it up? 

 

48 minutes ago, SoranoGuardias said:

Your board may SUPPORT it, but that doesn't mean your board RUNS WELL with it. I have some experience in this department. If you aren't going to be a hardcore overclocker and get your elbows greasy digging around tweaking with memory timings, then you should be using RAM that operates at the DDR4 floor spec for your platform, which is 2400. Unless you are willing to tinker with your system and you just want it to WORK, then anything above base spec is going to be a pain in your butt.

 

Now, this is a much better and nicer reply to your second one. The fact that it passed memtest86 without fail is interesting. Maybe if my old RAM would fit back in (idk why it won't work with my old ram in, very odd) I would go back but yeah, I don't even know if its the RAM since I was getting some other issues with my PC and also my family is plagued with PC problems. I'm gonna do some more testing and contact with professionals and have them look at msinfo's and dxdiag and contacted msi themselves to ask them rather then trusting a random (no offence).

 

But, if you are right (not saying you're not but who knows), that sucks, I wanted to make the jump from 2133 to 3000 since its a lot of difference, but 2133 to 2400 isn't really that big of a deal (well, to justify spending more money anyway). So yeah that would suck. Problem is I gotta figure out how to get my old RAM to work and I can't remember what slots they were in (because they're unpaired, I think its 2/3 since the manual says insert the first and there must always be one in slot 2 but idk).

 

It's also weird how I've posted this on 4 different sites + contacted 3 different supports (still waiting on MSI though cause chinese new year holidays) and you're the only one to say that about the 2400 operation thing. Odd

 

Anyway, I think i'll wait on more replies since I have heaps of evidence now and a much better thread and see what happens. Worst comes to worst I have to ship it back but I get full refund + the shipping back and then try to figure out how to put my old RAM in my pc.

[SoranoGuardias]

You see the letters OC next to the "supported speeds"?

Give you a guess what that means.

[LeROY]

2 hours ago, SoranoGuardias said:

Your board may SUPPORT it, but that doesn't mean your board RUNS WELL with it. I have some experience in this department. If you aren't going to be a hardcore overclocker and get your elbows greasy digging around tweaking with memory timings, then you should be using RAM that operates at the DDR4 floor spec for your platform, which is 2400. Unless you are willing to tinker with your system and you just want it to WORK, then anything above base spec is going to be a pain in your butt.

Support means exactly that! it will run without losing specs, limiting usability or have specific model issues. You are describing COMPATIBLE, that basically just they know it fits in the slot.

 

 

On 2/6/2019 at 6:12 AM, JayTee said:

List anything you've done in attempt to diagnose or fix the problem.

Windows updates, restarts, yeah. NOTHING

 

Provide any additional details you wish below.

I don't know if it is the RAM problem, all I know it happened after I put the ram in

 In troubleshooting threads you should always have/show screens of GPU-Z, CPU-Z and hwmonitor -idle and under benchmark load. Especially showing what happens when issue occurs. Windows can have a leak and eat all memory or.. impossible to guess

Knowing what it ISNT makes it 95% easier than guessing what it is.

BIOS values doesnt mean much if its e.g issue is caused by lack of power when windows run or bad power-supply. Which memtest did you run? boot or standalone, temp?. How bout other browsers, or in safemode same issue? It could be an app no longer supported in Chrome, or dev mode not turned on on. Check if its 64bit or 32(x86)

Ive had similar issues where it seemed as workload or heavy programs didnt affect in any pattern, turned out to be faulty power-supply (was brand new).

 

The wattage  dont make much sense to be as Im pretty sure the GPU can reach that on its own, Ive never seen TDP be used like that..  The amp; does it run on its own circuit? Or can it?

 

I am taking for granted you bought ram as kit and placement/slot used is based on serial-number 1 number should separate the 2 (I know.. then it happened to me..so dont.) Also that there isnt a "fix" with RAM-support or more likely; BIOS-update. BIOS versions out of box is pretty much useless, if your part were added to support list later you can be frying your parts without even knowing.

As you see it can be anything, s figure out what its not first

If you believe its ram and memtest is mentioned first after 10-15 posts, and resource graph/log and temp isnt of any interest; Best advice is go to TomsHW and make a post

[JayTuut]

2 hours ago, LeROY said:

In troubleshooting threads you should always have/show screens of GPU-Z, CPU-Z and hwmonitor -idle and under benchmark load. Especially showing what happens when issue occurs. Windows can have a leak and eat all memory or.. impossible to guess

Knowing what it ISNT makes it 95% easier than guessing what it is.

BIOS values doesnt mean much if its e.g issue is caused by lack of power when windows run or bad power-supply. Which memtest did you run? boot or standalone, temp?. How bout other browsers, or in safemode same issue? It could be an app no longer supported in Chrome, or dev mode not turned on on. Check if its 64bit or 32(x86)

Ive had similar issues where it seemed as workload or heavy programs didnt affect in any pattern, turned out to be faulty power-supply (was brand new).

 

The wattage  dont make much sense to be as Im pretty sure the GPU can reach that on its own, Ive never seen TDP be used like that..  The amp; does it run on its own circuit? Or can it?

 

I am taking for granted you bought ram as kit and placement/slot used is based on serial-number 1 number should separate the 2 (I know.. then it happened to me..so dont.) Also that there isnt a "fix" with RAM-support or more likely; BIOS-update. BIOS versions out of box is pretty much useless, if your part were added to support list later you can be frying your parts without even knowing.

As you see it can be anything, s figure out what its not first

If you believe its ram and memtest is mentioned first after 10-15 posts, and resource graph/log and temp isnt of any interest; Best advice is go to TomsHW and make a post

 

 

1. TomsHW i already made 2 different topics to no prevaile.

 

2. I do have a shot of CPU-Z there. And the issue is 100% of the time... so I mean I can provide if u need those

3. Memtest86, 100% pass.

4. 64 bit for chrome? yeah it is. And I tried removing chrome themes and shit. I guess I can check 1 by 1 if my extensions are the problem by turning them all off and seeing if it fixes it.

5. TDP? What u mean? I'm confused on that sentence alone

7. I'm so confused on what the rest of your post says, but I replaced 2 non-pairing 1x8 and 1x8 and bought a 2x8 (16gb) one to replace it and put it in slot 2/4 (manual says 2/4 and motherboard requires one in slot 2)

8. Bios is the latest version it could be.

 

Also in addition to my... what you call "nothing" That I've done, I also have done audio driver updates, a memtest86 (as previously mentioned) and a graphic driver update. As well as exiting some startup apps and uninstalling unused ones. Removed theme, removed background apps etc.

 

I just can't find out what it is.

[Findiculous]

 

5 hours ago, JayTee said:

 

 

1. TomsHW i already made 2 different topics to no prevaile.

 

2. I do have a shot of CPU-Z there. And the issue is 100% of the time... so I mean I can provide if u need those

3. Memtest86, 100% pass.

4. 64 bit for chrome? yeah it is. And I tried removing chrome themes and shit. I guess I can check 1 by 1 if my extensions are the problem by turning them all off and seeing if it fixes it.

5. TDP? What u mean? I'm confused on that sentence alone

7. I'm so confused on what the rest of your post says, but I replaced 2 non-pairing 1x8 and 1x8 and bought a 2x8 (16gb) one to replace it and put it in slot 2/4 (manual says 2/4 and motherboard requires one in slot 2)

8. Bios is the latest version it could be.

 

Also in addition to my... what you call "nothing" That I've done, I also have done audio driver updates, a memtest86 (as previously mentioned) and a graphic driver update. As well as exiting some startup apps and uninstalling unused ones. Removed theme, removed background apps etc.

 

I just can't find out what it is.

 

5. TDP stands for Thermal Design Power. Its used for heat output measurements. You see it quoted on CPU specs. The TDP of the 7700K is 91W meaning it outputs 91W worth of heat when under load.

 

7. TL;DR - Did you try running just a single stick of RAM?

 

What version of Windows are you running? Chrome is renowned as being a RAM eater in general.

In addition, if you are running Win 7 (you can also check Win 10), check task manager and look at processes that are utilizing your RAM at the time of changing TABs and opening/using discord.

If unrecognised programmes are running in the background which start up at these times, this could even be a virus issue (you will want to view all processes not just the standard ones.) Also check your chrome add-ons to make sure these are either updated correctly, or are indeed what you installed into chrome.

 

If all seems okay from the above then:

Yes though 3000MHZ is "supported" it may not always be the case. You should always be careful with these things when overclocking. So try to dial back the profile a little. You dont have to go as far back as the base stock speeds if you are going to constantly whine about it but bear in mind that overclocking is not an exact science. Increasing overall values sometimes results in diminished gains. 

 

For example:

Overclocking both your CPU and GPU may produce an increase in performance (or it might crash instantly). But at the same time, underclocking the GPU whilst overclocking the CPU could result in the same or greater gains (Jayztwocents is a great example on his videos of extreme overclocking to beat out Gamers Nexus where he overclocked everything with one system and then did the same thing with supposedly something more powerful but it couldnt handle the overclock so he had to dial it back but ended up with similar performances). Yes I know im using a cpu gpu example but as those types of overclocking are more common.

[SoranoGuardias]

There is a reason I say SUPPORT and COMPATIBLE differently. The BOARD is just the BOARD. The system is EVERYTHING installed on the board. Due to how the board is set up (PCIe bandwidth allocation, bifurcation, and auto-disabled components) your board may support up to seven PCIe cards installed, but something may be automatically disabled for them to function such as your NVME drive, a SATA controller, or a LAN controller, in order for your cards to all work.

Likewise, the memory specification tells you what kits speeds have successfully been tested in the board, but not the system loadout. So the BOARD may be compatible with it, but your SYSTEM may not be without the appropriate tinkering.

Try these specific memory settings and see if it alleviates your problems any.

Go into your board's UEFI BIOS and locate your system's memory profiles.

Use the manual located here to help you: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/Z270-SLI#down-manual

MANUALLY CONFIGURE THE FOLLOWING SETTINGS.

Use BIOS ADVANCED MODE
Go to OC

Scroll down to XMP

XMP - DISABLED
Frequency - 2400MHz

Select ADVANCED DRAM CONFIGURATION

Set the first four values in this order: 16-16-16-39
Set DRAM VOLTAGE to 1.2V

Save BIOS configuration and reboot.

Also, you can try the MEMORY TRY IT function to see if it helps as well.
 

[JayTuut]

4 hours ago, Findiculous said:

 

 

5. TDP stands for Thermal Design Power. Its used for heat output measurements. You see it quoted on CPU specs. The TDP of the 7700K is 91W meaning it outputs 91W worth of heat when under load.

 

7. TL;DR - Did you try running just a single stick of RAM?

 

What version of Windows are you running? Chrome is renowned as being a RAM eater in general.

In addition, if you are running Win 7 (you can also check Win 10), check task manager and look at processes that are utilizing your RAM at the time of changing TABs and opening/using discord.

If unrecognised programmes are running in the background which start up at these times, this could even be a virus issue (you will want to view all processes not just the standard ones.) Also check your chrome add-ons to make sure these are either updated correctly, or are indeed what you installed into chrome.

 

If all seems okay from the above then:

Yes though 3000MHZ is "supported" it may not always be the case. You should always be careful with these things when overclocking. So try to dial back the profile a little. You dont have to go as far back as the base stock speeds if you are going to constantly whine about it but bear in mind that overclocking is not an exact science. Increasing overall values sometimes results in diminished gains. 

 

For example:

Overclocking both your CPU and GPU may produce an increase in performance (or it might crash instantly). But at the same time, underclocking the GPU whilst overclocking the CPU could result in the same or greater gains (Jayztwocents is a great example on his videos of extreme overclocking to beat out Gamers Nexus where he overclocked everything with one system and then did the same thing with supposedly something more powerful but it couldnt handle the overclock so he had to dial it back but ended up with similar performances). Yes I know im using a cpu gpu example but as those types of overclocking are more common.

 

5. Yeah but I'm confused what he was saying about the TDP

 

7. Yes and no, when I was having trouble getting the ram to work at all, I put in one stick but yeah it didn't boot. Should I try it now that its working and just take the one out of slot 4? What would this achieve? Thanks  

 

8. Windows version 10.0.17134 (latest that I know of?) Windows 10 Pro

 

9. When i change tabs and in the freeze i checked task manager, nothing changes, still stays at <45% with like 6 chrome tabs open

 

9. I did scans with both antiviruses and I will try the extension thing now, seems odd tho that the extension would be a problem since its not only chrome, but audio in games (only games, not even youtube) and discord.

 

10. Yeah, I'll try going back to 2400 if MSI responds. 

 

11. Yeah I never overclock my CPU or GPU... I don't really need too and I like having items for long periods of time (which those would last less). I only OC'ed my RAM to make it work at its original value.

 

[JayTuut]

Also what I find really odd is that my PC works fine when it starts up and everything is normal but then after like 5-10 mins after startup is when it breaks. Not sure if that helps at all.