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Need help building a computer


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Ok so I have never built a computer before. But it seems i need to make one for the work i am doing.

 

This is what the computer is going to be used for:

 

Gaming (duh) (Gta V levels im guessing)

 

Photoshop

Premier Pro

After Effects

Other Video editing software

 

Basically film stuff

 

Budget: I would say around $800-1200

 

Right now Im using a mac.......laptop

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Posted · Hidden by Woifi The Viking, April 8, 2016 - No reason given
Hidden by Woifi The Viking, April 8, 2016 - No reason given

Dat triple post. Sorry

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Posted · Hidden by Woifi The Viking, April 8, 2016 - No reason given
Hidden by Woifi The Viking, April 8, 2016 - No reason given

I recommend pcpartpicker.com. you can look up a ton of parts and it checks for compatability and gives you an overall price.

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I recommend pcpartpicker.com. you can look up a ton of parts and it checks for compatability and gives you an overall price.

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I gave it a go:

 

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/d862qs
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/d862qs/by_merchant/
 
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($289.99 @ Micro Center) 
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($24.29 @ OutletPC) 
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($79.99 @ Micro Center) 
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($55.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($66.88 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.98 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card  ($329.98 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case  ($49.99 @ Micro Center) 
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($69.99 @ NCIX US) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  ($15.99 @ Newegg) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)  ($86.49 @ OutletPC) 
Total: $1117.56
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-06 16:06 EDT-0400
 
Summoning the computer wizards here to pick apart my build.
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CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($289.99 @ Micro Center) 

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($24.29 @ OutletPC) 
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($79.99 @ Micro Center) 
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($55.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($66.88 @ OutletPC) I have this paired with..
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.98 @ OutletPC) ..This and its really good.
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card  ($329.98 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case  ($49.99 @ Micro Center) 
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($69.99 @ NCIX US) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  ($15.99 @ Newegg) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)  ($86.49 @ OutletPC) 
Total: $1117.56
Summoning the computer wizards here to pick apart my build.

This is a very good build imo. Im not crazy knowledgable at building, but from the reasearch I did when I built my computer this is a really good build.

 

@OP, BTW Get an SSD! Its SO incredibly worth it. Install windows, (i installed the geforce drivers for nvidia on it), any sound system you have (like razer surround sound or something) and maybe a few of those programs you have listed on it.. My computer boots up and launches steam, razer surround sound, and all the geforce drivers in around 17-20 seconds because I have an SSD. I wouldnt reccomend putting everything on it (put all your other stuff on hard drive ofc) because thats not what its meant for, but definitely install windows and all the stuff that boots up on start on it.

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This is a very good build imo. Im not crazy knowledgable at building, but from the reasearch I did when I built my computer this is a really good build.

 

@OP, BTW Get an SSD! Its SO incredibly worth it. Install windows, (i installed the geforce drivers for nvidia on it), any sound system you have (like razer surround sound or something) and maybe a few of those programs you have listed on it.. My computer boots up and launches steam, razer surround sound, and all the geforce drivers in around 17-20 seconds because I have an SSD. I wouldnt reccomend putting everything on it (put all your other stuff on hard drive ofc) because thats not what its meant for, but definitely install windows and all the stuff that boots up on start on it.

 

Yup I have a Samsung 830 (a few models old) and the thing is still running like a boss. Same for my two WD HDDs, so I can definitely vouch for those. The other parts, quite frankly, I'm not as familiar with since it's been about 5 years since I've built a computer. I basically just chose based on specs and brands I know to be good.

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That list is pretty coherent, I like how you put in 16GB of RAM instead of the usual 8 that people recommend. Only issue I can really see is that the list doesn't include a monitor, which might be a problem that could cause the list to go over budget. Could probably ditch the optical drive since honestly it's not all that useful nowadays.

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That list is pretty coherent, I like how you put in 16GB of RAM instead of the usual 8 that people recommend. Only issue I can really see is that the list doesn't include a monitor, which might be a problem that could cause the list to go over budget. Could probably ditch the optical drive since honestly it's not all that useful nowadays.

I already got moniters. some from my friends workplace that they don't need anymore. They are pretty good

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I already got moniters. some from my friends workplace that they don't need anymore. They are pretty good

Do you need any peripherals (keyboard/mouse/speakers)?

 

Would you be willing to buy Windows from Kinguin.net (they're not an official reseller but rather individuals who list licenses that they have for sale -- often times they're MSDN licenses). It's about a third of the price and there is a guarantee service that ensures the license will activate (although it is technically possible that the license could get rescinded if it is an MSDN license -- but it's important to know the likelihood of this happening is extremely small and the risk IMO is worth the fact that you can buy a second license and still save money even if that occurs).

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Do you need any peripherals (keyboard/mouse/speakers)? 

I need a keyboard and speakers but idk which ones to get

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I need a keyboard and speakers but idk which ones to get

Okay....well, do you want a mechanical keyboard ($70+~) or just a normal membrane keyboard (I would recommend trying out a mechanical keyboard at a local store if you can)? For speakers I would recommend M-Audio AV32s (I have the AV30s and I found that they sound quite a bit better than any of the typical desktop speaker sets). But how much you care about sound quality will determine whether or not that's worthwhile to you (since you can get a more typical pair of desktop speakers for $30-$50 versus the AV32s which are around $100).

 

Also, would you be willing to buy Windows from Kinguin.net (they're not an official reseller but rather individuals who list licenses that they have for sale -- often times they're MSDN licenses). It's about a third of the price and there is a guarantee service that ensures the license will activate (although it is technically possible that the license could get rescinded if it is an MSDN license -- but it's important to know the likelihood of this happening is extremely small and the risk IMO is worth the fact that you can buy a second license and still save money even if that occurs).

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Also, would you be willing to buy Windows from Kinguin.net (they're not an official reseller but rather individuals who list licenses that they have for sale -- often times they're MSDN licenses). It's about a third of the price and there is a guarantee service that ensures the license will activate (although it is technically possible that the license could get rescinded if it is an MSDN license -- but it's important to know the likelihood of this happening is extremely small and the risk IMO is worth the fact that you can buy a second license and still save money even if that occurs).

 

Lol you repeated this twice...anything you ain't telling us? ;)

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Lol you repeated this twice...anything you ain't telling us? ;)

I edited that into my post as he replied so he didn't see it. 

 

 

 

 

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($69.99 @ NCIX US) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  ($15.99 @ Newegg) 
 
Summoning the computer wizards here to pick apart my build.

 

My only real complaint is the G1 series is pretty low quality. I would either go with something budget (and actually better quality) like a Seasonic S12ii or spend a bit more and get something really high quality like an EVGA G2/GS/GQ, XFX TS, or Seasonic S12G.

 

I also wouldn't get an 850 Evo, it's a great drive and all, but it's not worth more than twice as much as something like an SP550/Trion 150. The main reason for an SSD is the lower latency, the higher transfer speeds are just a nice bonus that MOST people will never notice since they're generally not transferring large enough files frequently enough nor are they transferring it to another equally fast drive. 

 

Also, it's 2016, it's time to lose the ODD. 

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I gave it a go:

 

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/d862qs
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/d862qs/by_merchant/
 
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($289.99 @ Micro Center) 
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($24.29 @ OutletPC) 
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($79.99 @ Micro Center) 
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($55.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($66.88 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.98 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card  ($329.98 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case  ($49.99 @ Micro Center) 
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($69.99 @ NCIX US) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  ($15.99 @ Newegg) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)  ($86.49 @ OutletPC) 
Total: $1117.56
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-06 16:06 EDT-0400
 
Summoning the computer wizards here to pick apart my build.

 

I'd reccomend a Pro 6 then a Pro 4, just less issues and problems from many reviewers. 

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I'd reccomend a Pro 6 then a Pro 4, just less issues and problems from many reviewers. 

I wouldn't put too much faith in random reviews you read. Neither has any publicized defects that cause issues, so both are basically equally good...it just comes down to whether or not you get unlucky and get a bad component (which happens across the board pretty equally).

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The PNY CS2211 seems determined to give samsung and crucial a run for their money. Currently $70 on Amazon (lowest I've seen is $60) for the 240GB version it offers some pretty good MLC NAND for high speeds and none of the cache issues with cheap TLC SSDs.

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I edited that into my post as he replied so he didn't see it. 

 

 

My only real complaint is the G1 series is pretty low quality. I would either go with something budget (and actually better quality) like a Seasonic S12ii or spend a bit more and get something really high quality like an EVGA G2/GS/GQ, XFX TS, or Seasonic S12G.

 

I also wouldn't get an 850 Evo, it's a great drive and all, but it's not worth more than twice as much as something like an SP550/Trion 150. The main reason for an SSD is the lower latency, the higher transfer speeds are just a nice bonus that MOST people will never notice since they're generally not transferring large enough files frequently enough nor are they transferring it to another equally fast drive. 

 

Also, it's 2016, it's time to lose the ODD. 

 

Honestly I have no idea about PSUs, I just went with one that looked decent and I figured you'd suggest a better one anyway.

 

As for the SSD, personally I'd rather spend $30 extra to know I'm getting a better quality SSD (which is going to hold all my important OS stuff), but that's just me. 

 

The ODD is 15 bucks, and some people still use them so I included it anyway. 

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Whats an SSD?

An SSD is a solid state drive. Compared to a hard drive (HDD).

 

Solid state drives are smaller than hard drives (physically)

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They arent really built (yet) to hold tons and tons of programs, but what I did was I hooked it in to my computer while building, then installed windows and any other programs id need fast bootup/export times on (steam, chrome, SFM, razer stuff, etc etc)

 

Basically its just a tiny hard drive that makes your computer boot up fast as hell if you install windows on it :D I was a bit skeptical if i really needed one at first, but after comparing my computer to my friends I realize the quick bootup tim is definitely worth the money.

 

BTW, when I was building my computer (as a first time builder) I was super worried I was going to shock something on my PC. I didnt even realize how delicate the parts were till they were soon to arrive.. BUT after looking it up, even with just a bit of static on the wrong part can fry the entire thing. not mandatory, but i personally would suggest an anti shock bracelet. clip one end to the metal case, put it on your wrist, and it balances the shock in your body so you wont fry your delicate card/hdd/sdd etc. They cost like 5-10 bucks.. so if youre paranoid like me its worth saving the fear of ruining $200+ parts

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[...]

Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($66.88 @ OutletPC) 

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.98 @ OutletPC) 
[...]
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)  ($86.49 @ OutletPC) 

 

Id definitely recommend a ~250GB SSD, if you can afford it. There's currently an amazing deal on a sandisk 240GB, that should do fine as well. Not entirely sure if sandisk is a good brand, but McCoolname will probably know about that. I used one in my uncle's PC and it worked perfectly fine.

 

You can also save some cash if you do what McCoolname said (regarding the OS), but I can also recommend buying windows 7 refurbished (~50$} and upgrading to win 10 for free. I've done it myself and it's worked without problems. iirc there's also no risk of it being rescinded involved. Refurbished windows 7 installs and works just like normal windows 7, no worries.

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Id definitely recommend a ~250GB SSD, if you can afford it. There's currently an amazing deal on a sandisk 240GB, that should do fine as well. Not entirely sure if sandisk is a good brand, but McCoolname will probably know about that. I used one in my uncle's PC and it worked perfectly fine.

 

You can also save some cash if you do what McCoolname said (regarding the OS), but I can also recommend buying windows 7 refurbished (~50$} and upgrading to win 10 for free. I've done it myself and it's worked without problems. iirc there's also no risk of it being rescinded involved. Refurbished windows 7 installs and works just like normal windows 7, no worries.

Sandisk is good, but $60 is pretty much the standard going rate for budget TLC-based SSDs. 

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Sandisk is good, but $60 is pretty much the standard going rate for budget TLC-based SSDs. 

 

Never seen anything so cheap on german amazon, but now that I looked into it US stuff once again just destroy anything we have here anyway B)

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